The best way to avoid a pit fall at the next car show is to: Build a model of your ability, Do your
research, Paint to the best of your ability and lastly pay attention to detail. Some of these points
i will detail below but i will caution you ----Don't get discouraged at your first show well for that
matter any show take it as a learning curve. Meet new friends, go to have fun.
research, Paint to the best of your ability and lastly pay attention to detail. Some of these points
i will detail below but i will caution you ----Don't get discouraged at your first show well for that
matter any show take it as a learning curve. Meet new friends, go to have fun.
Prep Time Ok so you ran out to your local hobby shop and bought your first model and begin to look around for a few
extra goodies ------what you do next can mean the difference between discouragement and bankruptcy and model bliss. Its real
easy to go crazy and buy stuff thats will put a serious dent in your bank account. Begin by selecting a good grade spray paint
color, sealer, primer and undercoat especially if you intend to lay down a candy coat (gold makes a candy coat darker and
warmer while silver has the opposite effect). Purchase a X-acto knife and some #11 blades, tweezers, sanding board and a
polishing kit that is composed of various grades of fine sandpaper to give that painted model a great look. Next is selecting a
glue : There are many to choose from I prefer to use: Tenex a glue thats applied in small amounts to the seam thus welding it
together (caution once dried and bonded its forever). And a CA type glue (also called instant glue). Others tend to take longer to
set and can weaken over time, some toothpicks to apply your CA -glue, and lastly a Flat or semi gloss bottle of black paint for the
undercarriage and a metallic silver steel or aluminum, some small paint brushes for applying the detail colors. And your done.
Once home do your research look at how the parts are put together (real time) and how they interact. Begin by assembling and
painting the engine if you want to go the extra rote here the purchase of a pin vice, small drill bit and aftermarket pre-wired
distributer is advisable, next prep the body a good soak and hand wash with dish soap, rinse and air dry is advisable for a good
application of paint. Once dry sand all rough edges on the body. Find a small piece of board and drill 2 holes in it to insert a coat
hanger wire. Fashioned in a closed narrow loop bent at a right angle about 3-4 inches from the base. This will hold the body in a
level and firm position. Paint smaller parts on the plastic tree they came on until your get better.
Pint time Begin by spraying light coats slightly ahead of the model and continuing until you have cleared it repeat to
an even distribution of color but not drenched. Allow each color to sufficiently cure or dry 15min. and the final wet coat at least 3
days. Take your time don't rush. Wet sand each color lightly with the 4000 grit sandpaper in your polishing kit. Correct any
mistakes as you go not with heavier coats of paint.
Now that you have applied the final color and its cured. Get out the polishing kit and follow the directions (use all grades in proper
order WET sanding in one direction (non-circular). Once done, dry with the tack cloth in the kit to remove all sanding debris. And
let dry over night. Apply your top coat of transparent gloss and let dry. Sand lightly with the 6000 grit cloth, tack dry and add another
light transparent gloss coat if necessary. Let dry for at least 1 full day Now comes the tricky part purchase some Scotch brand
transparent tape (not that i endorse it but it does work) as a great painting edge. Lay the tape over the molded windshield lines
and press firmly in place to seal. This will like i said give you a great painting edge to apply the aluminum for early vehicles or flat
black for the later models on the molding that surrounds the glass and any side molding.
extra goodies ------what you do next can mean the difference between discouragement and bankruptcy and model bliss. Its real
easy to go crazy and buy stuff thats will put a serious dent in your bank account. Begin by selecting a good grade spray paint
color, sealer, primer and undercoat especially if you intend to lay down a candy coat (gold makes a candy coat darker and
warmer while silver has the opposite effect). Purchase a X-acto knife and some #11 blades, tweezers, sanding board and a
polishing kit that is composed of various grades of fine sandpaper to give that painted model a great look. Next is selecting a
glue : There are many to choose from I prefer to use: Tenex a glue thats applied in small amounts to the seam thus welding it
together (caution once dried and bonded its forever). And a CA type glue (also called instant glue). Others tend to take longer to
set and can weaken over time, some toothpicks to apply your CA -glue, and lastly a Flat or semi gloss bottle of black paint for the
undercarriage and a metallic silver steel or aluminum, some small paint brushes for applying the detail colors. And your done.
Once home do your research look at how the parts are put together (real time) and how they interact. Begin by assembling and
painting the engine if you want to go the extra rote here the purchase of a pin vice, small drill bit and aftermarket pre-wired
distributer is advisable, next prep the body a good soak and hand wash with dish soap, rinse and air dry is advisable for a good
application of paint. Once dry sand all rough edges on the body. Find a small piece of board and drill 2 holes in it to insert a coat
hanger wire. Fashioned in a closed narrow loop bent at a right angle about 3-4 inches from the base. This will hold the body in a
level and firm position. Paint smaller parts on the plastic tree they came on until your get better.
Pint time Begin by spraying light coats slightly ahead of the model and continuing until you have cleared it repeat to
an even distribution of color but not drenched. Allow each color to sufficiently cure or dry 15min. and the final wet coat at least 3
days. Take your time don't rush. Wet sand each color lightly with the 4000 grit sandpaper in your polishing kit. Correct any
mistakes as you go not with heavier coats of paint.
Now that you have applied the final color and its cured. Get out the polishing kit and follow the directions (use all grades in proper
order WET sanding in one direction (non-circular). Once done, dry with the tack cloth in the kit to remove all sanding debris. And
let dry over night. Apply your top coat of transparent gloss and let dry. Sand lightly with the 6000 grit cloth, tack dry and add another
light transparent gloss coat if necessary. Let dry for at least 1 full day Now comes the tricky part purchase some Scotch brand
transparent tape (not that i endorse it but it does work) as a great painting edge. Lay the tape over the molded windshield lines
and press firmly in place to seal. This will like i said give you a great painting edge to apply the aluminum for early vehicles or flat
black for the later models on the molding that surrounds the glass and any side molding.
Go crazy with your building
not with your sanity. Relax
and have fun. A hobby is
supposed to be enjoyable.
not with your sanity. Relax
and have fun. A hobby is
supposed to be enjoyable.